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The liquid-vapor
separator has three towers on it. The first
(left when facing front of machine) is 8 inches
high and has the pressure and liquid level
sensors on it. The second is 13 inches high, and
is the "flame modifier" tank. The third is also
13 inches high and is designated as the "back
arresting" solution container (backfire
container, or bubbler in my electrolyzer
design).
The two end
towers (left and right) are further connected at
their bottoms (just above the liquid-vapor
separator) by a second transverse container 4
inches in diameter and 17 inches long. The
actual connection is by two short 4 inch tubes.
I'd call this tube a "surge" tube, I think it is
meant to allow storage space for pressurized gas
and/or to prevent serious over-filling of water
from affecting the gas quality too much by
allowing water/electrolyte to be carried over
into the torch hose.
Personally, I
see the surge tube as way too large, or
un-needed altogether. In my opinion the whole
arrangement could have been simplified and/or
modified to be more versatile and effective. For
example, it would be nice to be able to switch
between pure and modified gas with a valve
(without having to drain the modifier tank to
eliminate the modifier from the flame); or even
to be able to run pure and modified gas at the
same time (with two torches). Also, I see no
reason that the water fill for the electrolyzer
couldn't have been mounted on the sensor tower,
leaving the back arresting tower simpler and
cutting out the surge tube entirely. But I will
qualify my opinions by saying I don't know
exactly all the plumbing arrangements inside
these various tubes. My electrolyzer designs are
simpler, more versatile and fully documented so
that people aren't guessing about their
function.
The gas seems to
go up the two hoses on the top of the cells
(connecting all the cells together), through the
liquid-vapor separator, through the modifier
tank first, then go back down (with some sort of
inner U-tube) and up through the back arresting
tank, then out the hose to the torch.
Water for the
electrolyzer cells is put in the back arresting
tower, where the water is poured through a down
tube directly to the liquid-vapor separator;
bypassing the back arresting apparatus in the
back arresting tower.
The water level
probes in the sensor tower indicate that the
maximum liquid level in the liquid-vapor
separator to be about mid level, lowest about 1
inch off the bottom.
Water for the
back arresting tank is supposed to be filled by
disconnecting the gas-out hose (found at the
top-backside of the tank) and using a small
flexible hose to pour water into the tank. Top
cover of the machine must be removed to do this.
We were unable to get our hose past the fitting;
so we drilled and tapped an 1/8 inch plug in the
top of the back arresting tank. We then filled
the back arresting tank till water came out the
drain (was about 1/2 quart), then closed the
drain and added 1/2 quart more (0.5 liter) that
the manual specified. It was unclear whether
this second 0.5 liter was needed, so we added it
anyway.
Advise for
operators of BN 1000E operators: drill new
filler plug to the left of main water filler
facing from front of machine), so water being
poured into the plug hole (for the back
arresting tank liquid level) doesn't drain into
the gas-out hose (water in your torch hoses is a
bother, causes your flame to spit and go out).
And always drain your back arresting tank before
re-filling it, or it will be impossible for you
to know what the liquid level is (need only 0.5
liter above filler).
I think it'd be
a good idea to drill and tap a "sight tube"
(with a floating ball) on the side of the "back
arresting" tower; then you could see at a glance
your back-arresting water level. Don't drill the
lower hole too low or you'll be below the bottom
plate and cause the gas to by-pass the backfire
arrester. You want your liquid level to be well
above the diffuser plate; you'll see the
diffuser plate (has holes in it) when you drill
the new hole in the top of the gas-out tower.
But you don't want your liquid level to be too
high or you will get water splashing up and out
into your torch hose.
Although the BN
1000E has proven that it can take a backfire
without blowing up (we accidentally backfired it
by turning the torch off too slow and we
discovered that we had no water in the
(separately filled) back arresting tank) I
notice the fittings in the plastic hoses are now
seeping a bit of fluid (even though this machine
has not reached pressures over 8 psi); this
seepage could have been caused by the backfires
that this machine has had it the past, with no
water in the back arrester. My recommendation is
to keep water in the back arresting container to
prevent the electrolyzer and hoses from having
to deal with the shock of a backfire.
Note:
My design does
not have the dozens of fittings that this
electrolyzer has. Every fitting is a potential
leak of fluid or gas.
The modifier
tank is to be filled with water first, to above
the drain level, then drained, plugged and
modifier added (no more than about 1/2 liter or
1/2 quart). To be sure that all of the modifier
has been removed, it may be necessary to add
water after draining the modifier, let sit for
at least 1/2 hour and then drain it again. Most
flammable fluids float on water.
Different
modifiers will give different flame
characteristics, and I discovered it may be
necessary to add oxygen to get the best
performance out of the modifiers. Some examples
of modifiers include; gasoline (will change it's
characteristics as the "light ends" evaporate
first), diesel, acetone, benzene, white gas, all
types of alcohol, and many other flammable
liquids. You could just use water in this tank
too, and it'd work as a second backfire
arrester.
THE FIVE
VARIOIUS SENSORS ON THE BN 1000E
ARE
A
temperature sensor (resistive?) on the fourth
electrolysis cell from the front. Disconnecting
this sensor causes the temperature readout to go
to "00" and doesn't immediately shut down the
machine. The temperature seems to be shutting
off at about 35°C. The temperature readout
is in °C even though the button you press
to check the temperature is labeled
"F".
A
pressure sensor (transducer?) on the third
tower, (back left of machine). Disconnecting
this sensor doesn't immediately shut down the
machine, the "actual" pressure reading goes to
"00". When this sensor is disconnected the
pressure continues to rise past the computer set
maximum. The pressure rises VERY fast and may
rise enough to burst the BN 1000E even with the
torch running.
A
liquid level sensor, which is three probes put
down into the solution. They seem to be simple
copper rods, which form some sort of on/off
switch. Examination of the LED's on the front
panel indicate that they are arranged in three
groups. So I expect that as each probe (three
different lengths) touches the solution, the
appropriate group of LED's light up. I note that
the liquid level is supposed to be about even
with the hoses coming in from the cells; highest
level about 2.5 inches off the bottom of the
liquid-vapor separator, lowest level about 3/4
inch off the bottom of the liquid-vapor
separator. Disconnecting this sensor does not
immediately shut off the machine, the panel of
LED's does go out.
Note:
That in our
testing of this BN 1000E, we found one LED to be
"blown" and the three probes of the liquid level
probe to all be shorted to each other; thus I
assume the liquid level probes to not be working
as originally designed or intended. At the
moment, when the liquid level goes to below the
bottom probe, all but two of the LED's go out,
and the "low water" light comes on (which is
good).
Note:
We operated the
machine with the liquid level 2 inches higher
than the highest set point with absolutely no
problem.
A
current sensor, which seems to be a calibrated
resistance on one of the DC leads coming out of
the full wave bridge rectifier. The wires to it
from the electronics are yellow and
blue.
A
voltage source, which seem to be the blue wire
(same one from the DC amps) and a red wire going
to the other DC side of the full wave bridge
rectifier.
Operation
notes:
The Brown's Gas 1000E makes significant
noise during operation, mostly from the fan; it
is so loud that we can't even hear the noise of
the transformer. The problem is noise pollution,
making normal conversation difficult and making
stress.
    
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