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STAGES OF
FUEL SAVER TECHNOLOGY ON THE
HONDA:
See archived
newsletters for
previous stages as they
happened.
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2001/2001_10.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2001/2001_12.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2002/2002_02.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2002/2002_04.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2003/2003_04.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2003/2003_08.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2004/2004_04.html
www.eagle-research.com/newsletter/archive/2004/2004_08.html
For the time being,
these pages are acting as a 'supplement' to
the newsletter information. The newsletters
contain much detail not included here.
We will be upgrading
these pages into a regular feature on the
website. In the meantime, only our newsletter
subscribers can enjoy this
preview.
Stage 1:
Insert a fuel filter
into the fuel hose before fuel pressure
regulator and carburetor (preferably before
fuel pump). We prefer transparent filters so
we can see when they need
changing.
Stage 2:
Insert a fuel pressure
regulator into the fuel hose just before the
carburetor. Adjust it to the lowest fuel
pressure that will give you no performance
problems. In this case we use 1
psi.
Stage 3:
Install a vacuum gauge
on the dash. We installed it where the clock
would have been, so we had access to battery,
ignition, lights and ground
wires.
Do a neater job
than I did. I miscalculated the depth of my
hole saw and the frame of the saw cut into
the dash vinyl. Later, as I was taking the
plastic frame in and out, I broke it and had
to plastic weld it. It is stronger than
original but isn't yet returned to factory
look.
Note the green LED
that indicates the deceleration fuel shutoff
circuit has shut off the fuel. This light
tells you when you are saving fuel by not
even putting it into your engine. We
installed this LED when we put in the
automatic (rpm version) deceleration fuel
shutoff.
Stage 4:
Install a manually
operated deceleration fuel shutoff switch. We
put ours right on the shifter so that we
could easily turn the fuel on and
off.
This will (in
combination with the vacuum gauge and the
tachometer) start to give you the idea of
under what conditions you can shut off your
fuel with no performance problems.
We found that we could
shut off the fuel whenever the engine rpm was
greater than 1200 rpm and we didn't have my
foot on the throttle
(deceleration).
Note: This Honda
already had a tachometer. You do not need
(though we recommend it) a permanent vacuum
gauge and tachometer. You can hook up
temporary ones that you remove after all
adjustments are complete.
The switch on the
shifter can be removed after installation and
adjustment of the automatic version of the
deceleration fuel shutoff is
complete.
We hooked the manual
deceleration fuel shutoff switch to the
'anti-dieseling' solenoids on the carburetor.
These solenoids are normally closed, opening
with ignition power. It was a simple matter
to put the switch in the power wire (leading
to both solenoids) to turn them off at will.
Most carburetors do
not have this anti-dieseling 'advantage'. In
those you need to install the Carburetor
Enhancer with the deceleration upgrade
(Detailed in the Carburetor Enhancer
Literature).
All our recommended
techniques shut off the fuel going OUT of the
carburetor; leaving the float bowl full of
fuel and ready for instant power when you
need it. We do NOT recommend shutting off the
fuel going INTO the carburetor because the
float bowl will empty and will require a few
seconds to refill once you turn the fuel back
on.
For electronic fuel
injection deceleration shutoff you need to
use the Electronic Diverter (detailed in HyCO
2A literature).
Stage 5.1:
Now that we had the
parameters needed to take maximum advantage
of deceleration fuel shutoff. We designed a
circuit based on several switches.
We have
deliberately not used the vacuum switch
circuits as per our earlier literature
because we find this rpm version to be more
efficient in actual driving conditions. For
example, it does not have to be readjusted
when the weather changes or when changing
altitude, it shuts off the fuel during times
when you are truly in deceleration but not
maximum deceleration and it turns the fuel
back on a fraction faster.
For simplicity we
designed the circuit to turn the fuel 'off'
as a default (using a p-channel mosfet with a
positive 'pull-up' signal to the gate) and
use normally closed 'grounding' switches to
keep the fuel turned on. P-channel mosfets
turn ON when their gate is grounded.
All the normally
closed switches are placed so that they
become 'open' when its OK to have the fuel
turned off.
(1) foot off
throttle
(2) foot off
clutch
(3) rpm greater than
set point (user adjustable)
(4) engine warm (choke
pushed in)
The circuit will NOT
shut off the fuel if any one (or more) of
these switches is grounding. (circuit
schematics shown below)
Note: There already
was a brake switch but we've found we don't
need to use it. It is OK to apply the brakes
during deceleration fuel shutoff. In fact,
the brakes are more effective (and wear less)
because they are not having the engine
'driving' against them as you are trying to
stop. Your brakes last longer and you need
them less (because engine deceleration is now
more effective in slowing you down without
brakes).
Stage
5.2:
We took out the rubber
bumper for the clutch pedal and used the hole
to hold a bracket to mount the clutch switch.
The first clutch switch we installed was
noisy and the constant 'clicking' was very
unacceptable for the driver. The switch
we now have is highly reliable, small,
inexpensive and quiet in
operation.
Most modern vehicles
(with manual transmissions) already have a
clutch switch so that the starter will not
engage if the clutch is not pressed in. You
should be able to use this switch. If it
is not a 'grounding' switch, you can use the
'reversal' circuit we detail in several of
our manuals (like the HyZor
Technology).
Stage
5.3:
We then installed an
'store bought' rpm switch. (Later we show you
a 'home built' circuit that is just as
effective and a lot less
expensive).
Stage
5.4:
Now we installed a
throttle position switch. Again, it is a
normally closed switch that is quiet in
operation. The bracket took a little time to
make and install.
(Note: All torch
work was done with an ER1200 WaterTorch)
Note: Wiring is
temporarily tied out of the way until the
installation is done and it can be loomed
neatly.
Stage
5.5:
Install a means to
shut off the deceleration fuel shutoff when
the engine is cold. This can be done lots of
ways. You could use switches on any linkage,
temperature switches from the engine or the
temperature switch on some electric
carburetor chokes.
This is our 'opps'
for the project. We discovered that when the
choke is pulled out, the cold idle rpm is
over 1200. Thus the deceleration fuel shutoff
'saw'; foot off clutch and throttle and rpm
over 1200 so it would shut off the fuel. The
circuit worked great, but we couldn't keep
the engine on :)) We needed to shut off the
circuit when the engine was at 'cold' high
idle.
We discovered that the
manual choke on this car included a
'grounding' switch so that it lights up a
'idiot light' on the dash (telling me that
the choke is on). We simply tapped into it
(as per the schematics), problem
solved.
Stage
5.6:
Installing a 'manual
bypass switch ' on the circuit. This bypasses
the mosfet and turns the fuel on. This is
mandatory on all 'enhancements' that could
affect the performance of the vehicle in
driving conditions. Also when you may be
having other drivers in the vehicle while you
are adjusting parameters (trouble
shooting).
We simply used the
same switch we had for the manual fuel
shutoff, now wired to bypass the mosfet. Once
we have the circuit working flawlessly (and
invisible to the normal driver), we will coil
it up and tie it neatly under the
dash.
Note: in our case,
a slight pull out on the choke (enough to
light the dash light but not enough to
actually choke the car) will 'act' as a
shutoff to the system and keep the fuel
turned on (assuming the mosfet is
working).
Stage
5.7:
Building and
installing the mosfet circuit/s as
shown.
The 'Power' mosfet
(P1) s an IRF9Z34, a P-channel mosfet in a
TO-220AB case design. It can handle (with
proper heat sink) 13 amps at 100°C. It
is rated for a maximum drain to source
voltage of -60 volts (making it very okay for
a 'nominal' 12 volt system).
'N1' and 'N2' are
IRFD014, N-channel mosfets in a HEXDIP case
design. Can handle 1 amp at 100°C. Is
rated for a maximum drain to source voltage
of 60 volts. We like using HEXDIPS because
they are circuit board mounted mosfets,
taking up little room. They work great when
low amperage switching is required. You can
use any equivalent n-channel mosfet,
including the ones in a TO-220 case style
from Radio Shack.
All resistors are
1/4 watt rated or greater.
R10 is 100,000 ohm.
R14 needs to be
minimum 400 ohm. We use a 1000 ohm
potentiometer (do not adjust for less than
400 ohm). It is OK to put a fixed 400 ohm
resistor in series with the R14.
R15 needs to be
minimum 400 ohm. We use a 1000 ohm
potentiometer (do not adjust for less than
400 ohm). It is OK to put a fixed 400 ohm
resistor in series with the
R15.
S2 is any SPST
switch that can handle the solenoid current.
We mounted it on the shifter for easy access
while driving.
RPM Switch. We show
both the 'store-bought' MSD Ignition Products
RPM Activated Switch Kit (part # 8950) with
the Adjustable RPM Module (part # 8677) and
the Home-Buildable circuit we are
designing.
S3 is the normally
closed (NC) clutch switch. We ultimately used
a 'Niehoff' brake switch acquired at 'Lordco'
(a local auto parts store). It was used on
Volvo 70-92, Saab 67-75, Geo 89-91 and BMW
70-88.
S4 is the NC
throttle switch. We used a brake switch we
got off some vehicle in the past and had in
our 'surplus switch' bin in the shop. You can
use the same style switch as
S3.
S5 is the OEM choke
switch, we just tapped into it as per the
schematic.
D2 is IN4002 diode.
1 amp. 100 volts or greater.
Note that we use
chip sockets, they save a lot of
trouble.
For those people
who don't have fuel shutoff solenoids on
their carburetors; where our circuits say
'Fuel Solenoids', you could send the
'positive' signal to the ECE to shut the fuel
off. If you have electronic fuel injection,
send the positive signal to an N-channel
mosfet reversing circuit (not shown) to
activate fuel shutoff using the Electronic
Diverter.
With the deceleration
circuit schematic in hand, do the initial
'look over' of your vehicle. Discover where
you will be getting your power from (ignition
and battery), where you will grounding the
circuit/switches and where all the components
will be located. Then you will know what
length/color/gauge to make the
wires.
We prefer to put the
electronics under the dash. You may want
to consider designing the components so they
are removable in case you change vehicles and
want to take them with you.
The board on the right
is the original circuit (Fig 01) with the LED
brightness pot (tan square). The board on the
left is the modification we added (Fig. 02)
to make the MSD output snap action; the pot
sets the rpm 'sensitivity' for the 'snap
action'.
Use different colored
wires (color code) and stick to it. Color
code will help installation and later
troubleshooting.
Make detailed notes on
the schematic the instant you make any
changes. Assume that you are instructing
someone that knows NOTHING of what you are
doing. If you are like me, you will forget
some details in the years to come and waste
time 'relearning' the circuit when you go to
work on it. Keeping a copy of the notes
in the glove box (with the vehicle papers) is
a very good idea.
We included a
potentiometer (Fig. 01, R15) to control the
brightness of the dash mounted green LED3. It
is variable from 400 to 10,000 ohm. Again,
you do not have to dash mount this LED; you
could just mount it on the circuit board to
assist when adjusting the switches. I
recommend doing both, as per LED2 and
LED3.
LED2 is mounted on
the circuit board and does not need a
brightness control. It makes it simple to
adjust the rpm switch because you can see it
easier than looking back and forth to the
dash. However, if you have an assistant that
can watch the tachometer and LED3, then LED2,
R14 and N2 are not needed on the
circuit.
We like to have LED3
on the dash because it helps us 'readjust'
our driving habits; mostly using the engine
to decelerate instead of the brakes and
remembering to take our foot completely off
the throttle during deceleration.
It is really a
satisfying feeling to see the green LED light
up. With practice it can be lit up quite
often. In some driving conditions we can go
many miles at highway speeds with it lit
(fuel shut off).
We discovered that the
MSD rpm switch was not 'snap action'. It
shuts off in a 'pulse width modulated'
fashion over a range of a couple of hundred
rpm. This would cause the solenoids to
'chatter' on and off in that rpm range. This
is OK (and recommended) when using it with
solenoid valves specified for the Electronic
Carburetor Enhancer (or the ED); because they
are rated for fast cycling and continuous
operation. But this is not good for the
'anti-dieseling' solenoid valves on this
Honda carburetor, so we added some circuit
components (Fig, 02) to make the MSD rpm
circuit 'snap action'.
The 358 (dual
op-amp) is set up as a very sensitive voltage
comparator. The 358 monitors C6 voltage and
compares the voltage to a set point voltage
(R12). The output signal (pin 7) is normally
low (negative) which keeps P1 turned 'on' and
(grounds the gate) of Fig. 01, P1; keeping
the fuel turned on.
R13 is 56,000 ohm.
R11 is 1,000 ohm. R12 is 500,000 ohm pot. C6
is about 30 uF.
-----------------
Alternate
'home buildable' RPM Switch (click
here)
Here is a circuit that
you can build yourself, instead of buying the
MSD rpm switch. It is based on the circuit we
designed for our 'Reverse Your Electric
Meter, Legally' book. The circuit works, but
we have not tested it in this particular
application, so there may be bugs to work
out.
-----------------
Stage
5.8:
Adjusting the
parameters of the deceleration circuit is
easy and straightforward.
Adjust each mechanical
switch to be 'off' (open and not grounding)
when in the position that you want the fuel
to be off. Foot off clutch and throttle,
choke in.
Adjust the rpm switch
to be 'off' (open and not grounding) when the
rpm is above your set point. Adjust your set
point to as low as you can without having
stalling trouble when you decelerate to a
stop.
Stage
5.9:
Making the wires neat,
seal the electronics from
moisture.
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